It was three days before Christmas when I received the news every traveller with a “weak” passport dreams of hearing: “Your passport is ready for collection.”
With trembling hands, I picked up the white envelope that held the key to my European winter dreams – would I be able to visit my sister in Berlin, sip mulled wine in Prague’s Christmas markets, waltz to the Blue Danube in Vienna as the city welcomed the new year, and watch Budapest’s historic buildings glow at dusk?
You’d think that after collecting passport stamps over the years, this anxiety would fade. But travelling with a Nigerian passport has taught me otherwise – even for the well-travelled, a visa is never guaranteed.
A Christmas Miracle…
I tore open the envelope with the ferociousness of someone unwrapping their last Christmas gift, and relief flooded through me: a 14-day visa had been granted. That same afternoon, we booked our flights from Nairobi to Berlin via Frankfurt. By evening, we were airborne, carried toward a continent of Christmas markets and cobbled streets.
Snow welcomed us to Berlin, setting a perfect stage for our winter adventure. We had booked the Vienna House Easy by Wyndham Hotel on short notice, and despite a peculiar odour in our floor’s corridor, the accommodation proved quite comfortable.
After settling in, we wandered through our neighbourhood, our footsteps crunching in the fresh snow, until we discovered Spaghetteria Loreta, a charming Italian restaurant. The afternoon passed leisurely over steaming plates of pasta and warm conversation.
Later that evening, we set out to explore Berlin’s legendary Christmas markets. Our search led us to the enchanting market at the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church on Breitscheidplatz.
Visiting Christmas Markets in Berlin: Breitscheidplatz…
As we approached the entrance, a delightful symphony of aromas beckoned us forward. Grilled bratwurst sizzled on massive grills, their savoury smoke mingling with the sweet, nutty scent of roasting chestnuts in copper pans. Strings of golden lights twinkled overhead like stars, and the happy chatter of visitors filled the air.
Visiting Christmas Markets in Berlin…
Before long, we found ourselves swept into the festive crowd, warming our hands with steaming glasses of mulled wine and savouring every bite of perfectly grilled bratwurst. For my first Christmas market experience, I couldn’t have imagined anything more magical.
The next morning, which was Christmas Eve, we met up with my sister at the Brandenburg Gate. But first, we began the day with a tram ride from our hotel to Alexanderplatz.
Visiting Alexanderplatz Christmas Market…
The Christmas market at Alexanderplatz was just stirring to life when we arrived. Only a handful of early-morning visitors wandered between the stalls, where vendors were firing up their grills and setting out their wares.
We shared a freshly grilled bratwurst and hot drinks, enjoying this tranquil moment before the usual festive bustle began.
Brandenburg Gate…
Next, we walked over towards Brandenburg Gate where we found NG waiting. Three years had passed since we’d last seen each other, making this physical reunion even more precious.
After spending time at the sobering Holocaust Memorial, we made our way to Hotel Adlon Kempinski for lunch, before saying our temporary goodbyes until Christmas Day.
While waiting for lunch with NG, we wandered through Berlin’s winter streets. Our morning journey took us back to Brandenburg Gate, followed by a stop at the festive market nestled outside the majestic Charlottenburg Palace. Between destinations, we strolled through peaceful local parks, taking in the holiday atmosphere.
Charlottenburg Palace Christmas Market…
The Christmas market at Charlottenburg Palace also felt magical, with the baroque palace as its stunning backdrop. Having visited a few markets by then, I knew exactly what I wanted – making a beeline for the steaming mulled wine and sampling even more seasonal delicacies.
A Merry Christmas in Berlin…
Finally, we headed to NG’s place where we spent the rest of the day relaxing with her, Yomi, Simi and her little one, Baby J. The food was excellent and the company even better.
We headed back to our hotel after a lovely evening with family. About a week later, we’d be back in Berlin to see her again. But for now, we gathered our things, excited to continue our adventure in Prague.
