I recently took a solo trip to Uganda, something I’d been dreaming about for years! At the very top of my bucket list was Lemala Wildwaters Lodge near Jinja, a property that had captured my heart for longer than I can remember. I’m honestly not sure when or how I first stumbled across this place, but from that moment on, it gained a permanent spot in my saved accommodations on Booking.com.
For years, I obsessively monitored the prices, searching for that perfect window to visit. On one occasion, the stars seemed to align when I planned a trip with my friend coming in from Canada. However, another wave of lockdowns emerged due to a new COVID-19 variant, and we had to cancel.
After that, I found myself prioritising other countries during spring and fall, which ironically coincided with when Lemala Wildwaters Lodge’s prices were at their best.
Eventually, I decided to take matters into my own hands and emailed the lodge directly. To my absolute delight, I discovered I could score a seasonal discount with my East African residency, bringing the rate down to something that rivalled even their low-season prices. That was it. The universe had finally given me the green light. It was time to make this dream stay a reality!
How to Get to Lemala Wildwaters Lodge in Kangulumira
After spending some time in Entebbe and Kampala, I arranged for a private driver to take me to Jinja. Mark had recommended Steven after his many trips to Uganda, and after my own experience, I can happily recommend him as well.
In an attempt to avoid the worst of Kampala’s notorious traffic, I asked him to pick me up as early as 6:00 am. By 5:30 am, he was already waiting for me, and by 6:00 am, we were on the road towards Lemala Wildwaters Lodge.
At that time of morning, we travelled on traffic-free roads to Kangulumira, about 30 minutes from Jinja. The journey was smooth, Steven was pleasant, and just two hours after leaving Kampala, we arrived at the Lemala Wildwaters Lodge gate. The private transfer was convenient and comfortable, letting me relax and enjoy the scenery along the way.
For travellers looking to save on transportation costs, there are a few more affordable ways to get there.
You could take a matatu (shared minibus) from Kampala to Jinja. They depart regularly from the main taxi park, although it can be crowded and somewhat chaotic for first-time visitors. Another option is booking a seat on a shared shuttle, which offers a middle ground between cost and comfort.
Companies like Pineapple Express run scheduled services between Kampala and Jinja at reasonable rates. Just keep in mind that with either budget option, you’ll need separate transport from Jinja to the lodge.
After Steven dropped me off at the parking lot, two boat skippers greeted me and took me on a short ride to the jetty, where a staff member was waiting to welcome me. Lemala Wildwaters Lodge is uniquely situated in the middle of the River Nile, surrounded by dramatic rapids, so a boat transfer is essential to reach the island.
I will always remember my first sight of the river as I boarded the boat, wide and calm in parts, with rapids swirling in the distance. It took my breath away.
Lemala Wildwaters Lodge Location: A Short Boat Ride to the Lodge…
I was initially worried that the boat ride would be choppy with crashing waves and turbulent water, but it turned out to be surprisingly gentle, lasting only about five minutes.
Upon arrival, I received a welcome drink and was invited to wait in the lobby while my room was being prepared. A staff member gave me a brief orientation about the lodge and its amenities, then left me free to explore. I didn’t need much encouragement.
Lemala Wildwaters Lodge is small and intimate, with just ten rooms tucked within lush forest and surrounded by the rushing waters of the Nile. The setting feels both secluded and alive, with nature pressing in from all sides.
As I waited to check in, I watched red-tailed monkeys leaping effortlessly from branch to branch along the boardwalk that led to the rooms. Nearby, the open seating area and small pool looked inviting, though it had just been cleaned when I arrived. Still, I was more eager to get settled in before taking a dip.
As tempting as the pool was, I found myself drawn instead to the library area, completely mesmerised by the ever-present sound of the river. That became one of my favourite discoveries about the lodge. No matter where I went on the island, the Nile made itself known. At times, it was a gentle, steady flow. At others, the rapids thundered with raw, untamed energy just metres away. It was both soothing and exhilarating at once.
I had been there for about an hour when a staff member informed me that my room was ready. When I booked, I had been told that check-in was between 2:00 pm and 5:30 pm, so I was pleasantly surprised to be offered my room at 10:00 am. It felt like a generous gesture and gave me more time to simply be, to breathe, listen, and soak in the quiet beauty of this remarkable place.
Lemala Wildwaters Rooms
My assigned room was Room 02 (Kagera), and at first, I felt a little disappointed because I had been hoping for one that faced the rapids. Instead, Room 02 overlooked the calmer side of the river and the boat jetty. I decided to accept my fate, and it turned out to be a good one.
The moment I stepped out onto the deck, I spotted a fairly large family of otters playing in the water. That instantly lifted my mood and gave me a fresh sense of appreciation for where I was. I grew to love the gentler, quieter waters outside my room, as well as its distance from the lobby, pool, and library area, where I spent my mornings watching the sunrise over the river.
Dining at Lemala Wildwaters Lodge
Time moved swiftly, and before long, it was time for lunch. Lemala Wildwaters Lodge is an all-inclusive resort (with drinks excluded), offering a three-course lunch and dinner menu. For lunch, I started with soup, as East Africa truly knows how to do soup right, followed by fresh fish and chips, because why not, and an apple crumble for dessert.
The meal was simple and satisfying, even if not particularly memorable, and dinner was pretty much the same. Perhaps I had gone in with high expectations, but generally, my meals were enjoyable and left me content. The beautiful views more than made up for any shortcomings.
Activities at Lemala Wildwaters Lodge
After lunch, I considered signing up for an activity for the following day. Jinja is known as Uganda’s adventure capital, and the lodge, in collaboration with its sister company, offered several thrilling experiences, including white-water rafting and bungee jumping, along with a range of other tours.
I was tempted to try the white-water rafting trip but decided against it in the end, mainly because my pre-scheduled calls made the timing impossible, and also because it was something I wanted to do with Mark. Instead, I chose the less demanding and far more relaxing options – a massage by the river and downtime at the lodge.
I spent two nights at Lemala Wildwaters Lodge, and it felt like just the right amount of time, although I could have easily stayed longer. While putting together this blog post, I came across a review mentioning the lack of activities on the island. I don’t see that as a downside at all. In fact, I think it’s one of the things that makes this place so special.
My days followed a simple, peaceful rhythm: eat, sleep, do some work, stroll along the boardwalk, swim, soak in the bathtub, and repeat – and I loved every moment of it.
Each morning, I woke up to watch the sunrise, had breakfast, and then walked to the Hypoxia Deck to lose myself in the powerful display of rapids in that area. Afterwards, I’d return to my room for tea, have lunch, enjoy my spa session, and unwind again before watching the sunset and heading to dinner. I loved every single slow, unhurried moment. It was good for my soul.
Saying Goodbye…
After two nights, it was time to head back to Entebbe for my onward flight to Nairobi. I had booked the last flight of the evening, so there was no need to rush. I lingered for one more sunrise in the library area, one more breakfast, one more look at the rapids.
I wanted to absorb as much of the place as I could before saying goodbye. There is something bittersweet about those final hours in a place that has captured your heart, when you find yourself moving a little slower, looking a little longer, and trying to commit every detail to memory.
Eventually, Steven arrived to collect me, and I reluctantly made my way to the jetty. As the boat pulled away from the island, I couldn’t help but feel deeply grateful for the experience, for the chance to be in a place that had lived only in my dreams a few years ago.
The Sum Up…
Lemala Wildwaters Lodge truly delivered on the dream I had been chasing for years – a secluded escape in the middle of the Nile surrounded by breathtaking natural beauty. Still, there are a few practical realities worth noting for anyone considering a visit.
As a nature lodge situated on an island, you’ll need to embrace some wildlife cohabitants. Lake flies are common around the water, particularly in certain seasons, and geckos are frequent room visitors – which means you’ll likely spot gecko droppings in corners or on surfaces. The mosquito net over the daybed in my room had a few visible stains, and on my second afternoon, I noticed quite a few dead insects on the surface of the pool.
Given the price point, I had hoped for a slightly more refined presentation. That said, the lodge was by no means unclean; it is simply a place where nature takes precedence, and perfection is not always possible in such an environment.
What truly elevated my experience, however, was the exceptional staff. Every team member I met was kind, professional, and genuinely committed to making my stay memorable. Their warmth and attentiveness made all the difference.
A useful tip for future visitors: book directly with the lodge rather than through third-party platforms. Not only will you receive better rates, such as the East African resident discount I secured, but you will also avoid potential scams. There have been reports of fraudulent websites posing as the lodge, so it is always best to confirm that you are communicating with the official property.
Despite a few minor imperfections, Lemala Wildwaters Lodge remains one of the most magical places I have ever stayed. I look forward to returning one day.
Have you ever stayed somewhere that took years to visit? What made it worth the wait? I’d love to hear about your dream accommodations in the comments below!
