Legends of the South West – A trip to Osogbo & Ife

I’ve been meaning to visit Osun Osogbo Grove for a while now. When I visited Erin Ijesha, Ikogosi and Arinta Waterfalls about two years ago, the grove had been part of the original itinerary. I left it out then due to logistic issues. I had also missed opportunities to go with Unravelling Nigeria and Diusor, but this past weekend, the trip finally happened.

Osogbo Grove

Getting to Osun Osogbo Grove from Lagos

Sienna Car Lagos to Osogbo

I had the option of getting a car from Ojota but my colleague suggested that I get one at Ajah instead since it was closer to me. We both arrived at the bus park at about 6:30 am and caught the first car going out. It took a few minutes to get filled up and once it was 7:15 am, we were out of the park and on our way to Osogbo.

The journey wasn’t so bad. The roads were but the driver drove carefully and the car was quite comfortable. I suffered from motion sickness for nearly half of it and I was very glad when we arrived at Osogbo about 4hours later.

Osun State

There were bikes waiting outside the park when we arrived. We asked one of the riders to take us to the grove but he didn’t seem to know where it was. When I asked if he knew where the Osun-Osogbo festival takes place, he said he did and off we went.

The ride was quite short (about 10 minutes or less). The rider dropped us off at the entrance of the grove and we made our way to pay the entrance fee to begin the tour.

UNESCO Osun Grove

A little about the Osun Osogbo Grove…

Osun-Osogbo Sacred Grove is a sacred forest along the banks of the Osun River in Osun State. Listed in 2005, it is one of two UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Nigeria.

Most of what we see in the grove today is attributed to the Austrian artist, Sussane Wenger (Adunni Olorisa) and her followers. In the 1950s, she moved with her husband to Nigeria when he was offered a position at the University of Ibadan.

Sussane stayed back after falling in love with the Yoruba culture and religion and eventually became a priestess and custodian of the grove. She died in 2009 at the age of 93.

The tour was short and interesting. The guide spoke about the different sculptures and what each of them represented. She also talked about the annual Osun-Osogbo festival that brought hundreds of devotees to the grove from far and wide. How the worshippers of Osun believed the river had healing powers.

I also asked her about the Legend of Osun (who was one of Sango’s wives) and if the story about the violent rapids in the tributaries of the River Osun and Oba was true. She said it was.

Osun Osogbo Grove Bridge

Once we were done, we planned to head on to Susanne Wenger’s house – which the guide informed us was now a museum. It began to rain so we had to wait that out. After the rain had stopped, we decided to cut the trip short and head on to Ife instead. We got a minibus heading there and dropped off in front of the Obafemi Awolowo University, and then spent the night in one of their guesthouses.

Visiting the Moremi Statue of Liberty…

The next morning, we made our way to the city centre to see the Statue of Moremi Ajasoro. If you’re familiar with Yoruba folklore, then you must have heard the story about the brave Queen of Ile-Ife who single-handedly secured the victory of her people. It’s quite an interesting read.

When we arrived at the complex that housed the statue, the gate was locked. A quick search on google told me that the place was closed on Saturdays. I was a bit disappointed, to say the least, but I decided to make lemonades out of lemons by having a fun mini-photo session outside the gate.

Once that was over, I packed my stuff to leave but just as we were about to do so, a woman came riding on a bike. She stopped and opened the gate, so we could go in. I was ecstatic!

She told us that the place is always opened all days of the week, usually after 8 am. Gaining entrance into the complex is free at the time of this writing but a tip to staff who clean and man the place is appreciated.

Inside Moremi Inside MoremiWith that, our visit to Osun State came to an end after that. We left the complex and went looking for a car to go to Lagos. Our goal was to find one like the Sienna we travelled in before but we weren’t able to do so. Eventually, we hopped on a bus going to Ibadan and then another going to Ajah.

…And how much did this trip cost?

Here’s a cost breakdown of what the trip cost me. All prices are correct at the time of this writing. They are subject to change without notice.

Costs Lagos to Osun Osogbo Grove

A few points to note…

Foreigners are required to pay an entrance fee of ₦500 and phone cameras have a ₦1,000 fee attached to them. I used both my phone and DSLR but only paid for the DSLR. Tips to tour guides were not included in this breakdown as they were voluntary amounts paid.

If you choose to have dinner at the OAU guest house, you should budget up to ₦3,000.

Final thoughts…

I would certainly recommend a visit to both the Osun-Osogbo Grove and to the Moremi Statue (of Liberty). You may need to manage your expectations to be able to appreciate the places properly. But generally, if you love Yoruba folklore, you’ll definitely enjoy your visit.

Osun Osogbo Grove

47 comments

  1. I just stumbled across your blog as I was searching for tips on Queen Moremi Statue of Liberty and how to get there with my travel buddies.

    Do you have any idea if the area is now open for tourists on a Saturday, seeing that you said it is closed on Saturdays?

    By the way, I love your pictures and your blog is awesome!

    1. Hiya and thank you! Glad you love the blog.

      I actually did mention that the place is open all days of the week (usually after 8am) – the lady who opened the gates told me this. The information on Google at the time was probably wrong.

          1. We did have a great time…although we paid the lady at the Queen Moremi Statue, the sum of N3,000 before we were let in to view as well as take photos.

          2. Wow, that’s strange and just plain extortion! I didn’t have to pay when I went there but I gave the woman who let me in a tip. 3,000 is just too much for entry.

    1. Hmm, nope. Lol. There’s an old ‘suspended’ bridge there (pictured in the post) and it is held up by steel cables.

      1. Lol. I’m not done.
        I heard there’s a virgin territory, only virgins were allowed to go into that section of the groove, is this true?
        P.s I don’t know why I hear such things.

  2. First, I’ll say kudos on your blog. Already you are living the life a lot of people dream to 🙂

    I am a photographer and have recently decided to explore touristic locations in Nigeria and lend it my artistic skills by creating keepsakes, like the one I’ll link below. In reservingre how to access Agbokim Falls where I’m planning to start, hopefully, this week, I got in contact with your blog. I treasure friendships that move people forward, and that’s why I’m stretching my hand out. Whatever way you can carry me along on this quest, I’ll appreciate 🙂

    I have a little experience working and curating blogs. You can check out some of my effort at http://www.steempeak.com/@misterakpan. My Instagram handle is @misterakpan. I want to connect with you also. Meanwhile, I absorb your wonderful blog.

    Here’s a trip I did to Marina in Calabar, https://steempeak.com/photography/@misterakpan/photo-blog-calabar-11-11-18

    I look forward to hearing from you. I hope I’ll be notified through email when you respond to this. But if not, my IG is above and my email is **

    1. Hi Ubokobong, good to connect with you. I usually post some of my travel itineraries on my newsletter, so subscribing to it would be the best way to stay in the loop. Kudos on your blog and videos too and wish you an exciting time on your travels. Hope you enjoy Agbokim. X

  3. Hi Girl, love your travel page and everything that you do! Really nice that you take your own pictures and you don’t need a camera man lol. Lovely photos and beautiful destinations. Looking forward to more of your travel pics. 🙌🙌

    Kelzzz44__

  4. Beautiful write up, really cracked me up at the ‘river water growing edges’. If it works that’s some superb business idea there…. ‘oops don’t tell anyone 😂😂😂😂’.
    But I think I would like to visit, your write up created a clear picture in my head.
    Thank you 😊

    P.s I pray I’m the random winner @mii_dey 😁

  5. First timer here! Lol, but this was fun to read. Look forward to reading more posts!
    P.s. That yellow dress has my name on it 😂🌚

    IG: @deborahoguike

  6. Thank you for making your adventure easy with your storytelling . I have been to ife but it wasn’t so fun and unique like this. Maybe you should plan a trip for 10 people this holiday should be fun. And I love your gowns, you have gained ardent follower @laurinanuel

    1. Yaay, happy to have you here and thanks for the compliment 🙂 If you want to go with a group, there are a few guys already doing a spectacular job taking people around Nigeria and the rest of the world. I’ll probably post some of their tours here if I can collate them soon enough.

  7. You make traveling within Nigeria look so interesting and fun and on a budget. Most times when I think about trips like this i kind of think it would be a bit on a high. I’m Igbo and going to a place like this without knowing how to speak or understanding Yoruba shouldn’t be a challenge ?
    Most definitely, I try and make this trips with friends. Thanks for the hints

    @Buchiokereafor

    1. Thanks for your comment, Buchi. While having some knowledge of Yoruba is helpful, it isn’t compulsory to speak it. Practically everyone speaks English.

  8. Hello there. Love your page and your travel blogs so much. I wish i had the time to travel and eplore Nigeria the way you do, because there’s actually so much beautiful places and natural wonders that we don’t even realize, right here in our country. In my opinion, its better when we explore and travel round Nigeria, rather than travelling abroad and wasting absurd amounts of money. Thankyou so much for being an eyelet for us, by showing us your travel life and sharing your personal experience. xx
    Usman Gazzaz.

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