A Charming Autumn Trip to North Carolina

When Mark mentioned his upcoming conference in North Carolina, I asked if I could tag along. My freshly renewed USA visa was practically begging to be put to use, and it had been a few years since I’d last seen his parents. As we continued to discuss the possibility, the idea grew more appealing.

Why not take some time off work and transform this into a proper trip? After all, if we were going to make the marathon journey from Nairobi to the US, we might as well make it count.

Autumn in Chapel Hill, North Carolina

And so we did! In late October, we arrived to a wet and grey North Carolina, but the scenery still felt whimsical. Fall was in full swing, with trees bursting into beautiful shades of red, orange, and yellow that brightened even the gloomiest days.

The conference itself was held in Chapel Hill, a charming university town that immediately won me over. It was the kind of place that makes you think, “I could live here.” While Mark attended his sessions, I settled into a slower rhythm with our gracious hosts, who had opened their home to us for the week.

My days were spent wandering through the neighbourhood and parks, discovering local restaurants, and even visiting a horse ranch – each day unfolding at a gentle, refreshing pace.

An Afternoon in Raleigh

One of my favourite moments was an afternoon trip to Raleigh, where we wandered the city admiring its elaborate Halloween decorations. We stopped for tea and biscuits at a relative’s home, an unscheduled visit that reminded me that some of the best parts of travel are often the unplanned ones.

Before we left, she suggested we make a quick stop on our way back at Dix Park, where we visited the Gipson Play Plaza. I imagine the park truly shines in summer, but during our visit, it was quiet and peaceful. We wandered through the playground and play area, and my inner child was thrilled.

By then, the weather had also begun to turn in our favour. After four days of consistent showers, the skies finally cleared, and the sun came out just in time for a beautiful outdoor lunch, followed by an evening of trick-or-treating.

A Fall Road Trip to Asheville

After the conference ended, we picked up our rental car and drove about four hours west to Asheville. The scenery was absolutely stunning! The rainy weather was long gone, and the trees that framed the roads were literally glowing in brilliant autumn colours.

Where We Stayed

Upon arrival, we drove straight to the Cambria Hotel Downtown Asheville, where we spent the next two nights. It was a lovely downtown spot with views of the Blue Ridge Mountains and made a great base for our many walks around the city.

Later in the day, we wandered the streets to get our bearings and eventually found our way to Wicked Weed Brewing’s pub for drinks. The atmosphere was lively, the beer selection impressive, there were a few non-alcoholic options, and the bites were decent. I even scored a gift, just for the sake of it. It felt like the perfect welcome to the city. Everyone we encountered seemed genuinely friendly, and I found myself falling for Asheville’s creative, laid-back vibe.

What We Did in Asheville

For late lunch (or early dinner), we headed to Strada Italiano, a highly rated Italian restaurant in the city. We loved the atmosphere and enjoyed both the meal and the service.

The next morning, we started with breakfast at The Med before making our way to the River Arts District. This former industrial area has been transformed into a thriving creative community, with artists’ studios tucked into old warehouse buildings.

We spent a few hours walking around, admiring the studios and artwork everywhere. Later that evening, we planned to return for a stand-up comedy show, but for now, we headed back to the hotel to rest. While I recharged, Mark stepped out to pick up a few items for the next day’s hike.

When evening came, we drove to 12 Bones Smokehouse for dinner. Our Chapel Hill hosts had recommended this spot, and I knew it was going to be a hit the moment I saw that one of the barbecue rub options had habanero. The ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender, and the sides were just as memorable as the main event.

After our hearty dinner, we made a stop at the North Carolina Arboretum, where we strolled through stunning gardens in the golden afternoon light, some already bare from winter. Later, we returned to the River Arts District for the stand-up comedy show. The performances were hit and miss – some acts had us in stitches, while others fell a bit flat. Still, each comedian offered glimpses into what life in Asheville is really like, perspectives we would have certainly missed if we had only explored on our own.

Driving the Blue Ridge Parkway

Our third morning began with a hearty breakfast at Abuela’s Little Kitchen, before we set off on one of the most scenic drives of the trip – the Blue Ridge Parkway.

This legendary 469-mile route winds through the Appalachian Highlands, connecting Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park with North Carolina’s Great Smoky Mountains. We only covered a portion of it, but what we experienced was absolutely breathtaking. The parkway lived up to every bit of its reputation, offering sweeping mountain views at nearly every turn.

I should mention, though, that the parkway’s curves can be quite winding. I found myself battling motion sickness for stretches of the drive, but the views made it worthwhile. I was relieved when we finally reached our destination – a trailhead for the Appalachian Trail.

Hiking the Appalachian Trail

The Appalachian Trail needs little introduction. It is one of the most famous long-distance hiking trails in the world, stretching about 2,200 miles (approximately 3,540 kilometres) from Georgia to Maine. A few years ago, Mark completed the entire length of the trail, so getting the chance to step onto a small section of it with him felt very special.

We spent about two hours hiking, surrounded by the same autumn beauty we had been driving through, but experienced at a much more intimate pace.

Afterwards, we returned to Cherokee, a small town at the edge of the Great Smoky Mountains, for the night, stopping along the way to enjoy some incredible wildlife viewing as we came across a large herd of elk. They were a bit farther from the road when we headed toward the trailhead, but by the time we returned, they were everywhere.

We checked into the Great Smokies Inn and, after settling in, headed to Native Brews Tap and Grill for dinner. The restaurant offered a welcoming atmosphere and a menu that hit the spot after a full day of driving and hiking.

The next morning, we had a satisfying breakfast at the restaurant across from our inn (Mabel’s Kitchen) before setting out to hike the Alum Cave Trail in Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Hiking the Alum Cave Trail

This is one of the park’s most popular and rewarding hikes, and for good reason! The trail goes through a beautiful forest before reaching Alum Cave Bluffs, a massive rock overhang that offers a very welcome rest stop. From there, it grows even more demanding, with sections that cling to the mountainside and open up to spectacular views.

Our destination was the peak at LeConte Lodge, one of the most remote guest lodges in the eastern United States and accessible only by trail. It took us about four hours to reach the lodge, where we warmed up, grabbed a quick snack, and took a moment to enjoy the sense of accomplishment before starting our descent. The return journey took another three hours or so, making it roughly an eight-hour round trip with breaks.

The hike definitely tested my endurance, but I was genuinely glad to have completed it. By the time we reached the inn, all I wanted was a hot bath, followed by curling up in the heated room and crashing out. I didn’t even have the energy to go out for dinner that evening.

On our drive back to the inn, we were treated to another unforgettable sight. An elk walked majestically across the roadway, and I managed to capture it on video, which you can watch below.

Onward to Charleston

The following morning, we packed up and began the drive south to Charleston, South Carolina, where the next chapter of our trip would unfold. But that’s a story for another post.

I didn’t do much research for this trip and knew very little about North Carolina since Mark planned everything, so every moment became a beautiful surprise. I thoroughly enjoyed every bit of it.

Travel Tips for Visiting Asheville and the Blue Ridge Mountains:

• When to Visit: Autumn (late September through early November) offers spectacular fall foliage, while spring brings wildflowers. Summer is popular but can get crowded.
• Getting Around: A car is essential for exploring the Blue Ridge Parkway and the surrounding areas.
• What to Pack: Layers are key – mountain weather can change quickly. Comfortable hiking shoes are a must if you plan to hit the trails.
• Where to Stay: Asheville offers accommodation for every budget, from downtown hotels to mountain lodges. Cherokee provides convenient access to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
• Hiking Preparation: If you’re tackling trails like Alum Cave, start early, bring plenty of water and snacks, and don’t underestimate the elevation gain. The trails can be challenging but incredibly rewarding.

Have you visited Asheville or the Blue Ridge Mountains? I’d love to hear about your experience! What were your favourite spots, and do you have any hidden gems to recommend? Drop your thoughts in the comments below—I’m always looking for reasons to return!