On our first full day in Osaka, we took a half-day trip to Himeji, home to one of Japan’s most iconic and stunning landmarks. It was supposed to be a full-day trip to Himeji and Kobe. However, we were only able to see Himeji during this trip.
We had mistakenly boarded the commuter train instead of the 30-minute Shinkansen, adding an unnecessary hour to our journey. By the time we finally reached Himeji, there was an unspoken understanding among us that we’d explore the city and its castle alone before heading back to Osaka.
Luckily, Himeji and its castle are quite charming – I know, I say this about almost all the cities I’ve visited in Japan 🙂 – but it is true! Even without the thousand cherry blossom trees that would normally embrace the castle in clouds of pink blossoms, it was still charming. Their branches stood bare and expectant, weeks away from blooming, but the place had that special magic that made the trip worthwhile.
Getting to Himeji from Osaka
To travel the right way from Osaka to Himeji, you need to take the 30-minute Shinkansen from Shin-Osaka Station straight to Himeji. It’s quite embarrassing that I missed this, considering that I’ve taken this exact same train on my way to Hiroshima and Miyajima before. Anyway, don’t make the same mistake I did. The regular commuter train is cheaper than the Shinkansen, but not by enough to justify adding extra hours to your trip. It will absolutely cost you much more in time and energy than you’ll save in yen.
Even with our travel mishap, we managed to arrive at the castle early enough to grab pastries at a shop next to the station before walking to the castle itself and still beat the crowd. I don’t know if Himeji ever gets that crowded, but I imagine there would be an influx of travellers if the cherry blossoms were in full bloom.
During my previous visits to castles in Japan, including Osaka and Matsumoto, I have always skipped the castle’s interior, preferring instead to explore their beautiful gardens and parks. Being in Himeji with no crowds or cherry blossoms, it was a no-brainer to explore the interior of this castle as well. And so after taking our time wandering about the exterior and grounds of the castle complex, we made our way to the ticketing booth.
Himeji Castle Ticket Entry
We bought our tickets at the entrance, but they can also be purchased online via the official website. We purchased the Himeji Castle & Kokoen Garden Combo Ticket for 1,050 yen each, and I highly recommend it if you want to visit both places. And you should – especially Kokoen Gardens!
Personally, I don’t think you’d miss much if you skip the castle’s interior, especially if you visit on a crowded day. Apart from a minimal exhibition and the impressive, well-preserved wooden interior, there’s not much else to see inside.
On the other hand, Kokoen Garden was an absolute delight! We wandered through a nearby park first, spent some time watching an elderly man feed fish, and then made our way into the gardens. Something about these small moments – the ones that supposedly had nothing to do with our main itinerary – felt so precious to me.
Koko-en Garden
Once we entered Kokoen Garden, we took our time exploring the different sections. This garden turned out to be the perfect complement to Himeji Castle. What makes it special is that it’s actually nine separate walled gardens, each designed in authentic Edo period style, built right on the archaeological site where samurai residences once stood.
The largest garden features an expansive pond filled with colourful koi fish, and as you wander through the different sections – from bamboo groves to pine gardens to traditional tea ceremony spaces – you get these incredible glimpses of Himeji Castle rising majestically in the background.
Tea at Soju-an Tea House
Speaking of traditional tea ceremony spaces, Soju-an Tea House was a delightful find. I hadn’t booked a formal tea ceremony on this trip, so this experience was the perfect alternative. We were served matcha and traditional sweets by the host, and even with the language barrier, we shared a few warm exchanges.
After tea, we lingered in the building for a while, soaking in the calm and admiring the surrounding garden. My favourite spot was a serene room with a round shoji window. It felt like something out of a painting. We had the space all to ourselves for quite some time before any other visitors arrived.
And just like that, it was time to say goodbye to Himeji. We made our way back to JR Himeji Station via the lively Otemaedori Street, where we couldn’t resist trying one of the local favourites – the 10 yen coin cheese bread.
This time, we made sure to grab the correct Shinkansen ticket, and before we knew it, we were back in Osaka in a flash.
Our day trip from Osaka to Himeji was a perfect reminder of why I love travelling and why travelling with the right people can make a trip. Despite our train mix-up and having to scrap half our itinerary, we all took it in stride and made the most of what we had.
Whether it was savouring pastries by the station, watching that elderly man feed fish, or lingering over tea in a quiet corner of Soju-an, we found joy in those unhurried moments between destinations. Sometimes the best parts of travel aren’t the famous sights themselves, but the spaces in between – and the people who help you appreciate them.
