We bumped along a dusty track towards Spitzkoppe Campsite. Ahead, Groot Spitzkop’s granite peak rose dramatically from the desert plains, dominating the horizon. This iconic inselberg marked the latest chapter in our Namibian odyssey.
The journey here had been a crescendo of natural wonders. We’d stood mesmerized at Deadvlei, where the skeletal remains of 900-year-old camel thorn trees punctuated a bone-white clay pan, frozen in time against towering copper dunes.
At Sandwich Harbour, we’d watched in awe as massive dunes plunged directly into the Atlantic, creating an otherworldly collision of desert and sea.
Between these stops, we explored different sides of Namibian life: spending some time at a charming guesthouse in Windhoek and exploring the city’s mix of German architecture and modern African life.
In Walvis Bay, we kayaked with Cape fur seals and watched flamingos turn the lagoon pink, before heading to Swakopmund, where cosy bakeries, restaurants and art galleries line the misty coast.
Now, as Spitzkoppe’s granite dome beckoned us forward, we prepared to trade urban comforts for a night under one of Africa’s starriest skies.
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Camping in Spitzkoppe Campsites
After checking in at reception and stocking up on firewood, we began the hunt for our home for the night. Spitzkoppe campsite has 31 campsites spread widely throughout the area, offering peaceful seclusion from neighbouring sites.
The campsites here operate on a first-come, first-served basis, and we struck gold when we found Swakop. Nestled among massive granite boulders that provided natural shelter from the harsh midday sun, this spot felt like our private sanctuary in the desert wilderness.
Unlike the campground in Sesriem, the ones here are decidedly more rustic – though that’s part of their authentic charm. During our visit, we noticed plans for upcoming improvements to the public areas, but in the meantime, the sites maintained a simple, unembellished setup.
Each pitch includes its own long-drop toilet, which, I’m happy to report, was considerably better than those I encountered in Glacier National Park. Shared ablution facilities with hot showers and a restaurant were also available near the reception area.
While basic, the setup provided us with just what we needed for a genuine wilderness experience without sacrificing essential amenities.
Things to Do in Spitzkoppe: Enjoy a Luxury Desert Escape
For those seeking more luxury, Spitzkoppe Cabin Camp ($$) and the Spitzkoppen Lodge ($$$) offer upscale accommodation options, though we were content with our simple setup beneath the stars.
As for our plans for the things to do in Spitzkoppe, they had been very modest – just a few short walks to explore the immediate surroundings.
Things to Do in Spitzkoppe: Admire the Stunning Rock Formations
The rock formations here are pretty impressive and are especially stunning to see at sunrise and sunset.
But as we gazed up at the imposing silhouette of Groot Spitzkop, ambition got the better of us, and when I say “us”, I mean Mark! Rather than stick to the gentle trails around the base, he convinced me – quite easily, I must add – to attempt the summit of this granite giant.
We extended our stay in the camp one more night and spent the next day trudging up the rocky terrain to the top!
To scale the mountain, a guide is mandatory. When we arranged one at reception and they informed us the hike would take 6-8 hours depending on the climber, I dismissed it as an attempt to justify the steep guiding fee. How naive I was!
Things to Do in Spitzkoppe: Hike up Groot Spitzkop
There are three main climbing routes: the Pontok Route (~4-5hrs), Matterhorn Route (~6-8hrs), and Bushman Circle Route (~7hrs). We opted for the Matterhorn Route – a decision that would push me to the very edge of my comfort zone and physical capabilities. What followed was a test of endurance I hadn’t quite bargained for.
The hike began at about 8 am after we picked up our guide, Mackenzie, from the reception area. We then drove a short distance to the starting point and began bouldering our way up the mountain.
At first, the journey seemed only slightly tedious but what started as a somewhat monotonous scramble soon morphed into something far more challenging. As we gained elevation, the terrain became increasingly technical with narrow ledges and steep drop-offs.
Hiking the Matterhorn Route in Spitzkoppe
Then came the first chain climb – and there I stood, heart racing, seriously contemplating whether this was the moment to call it quits! Mark and Mackenzie’s steady encouragement kept me from retreating. With their patient guidance – and more than a few moments of stubborn determination – I pushed onward.
Three more chain climbs followed; each one a battle between fear and resolve. But finally, incredibly, we emerged onto the false summit!
Standing there, trembling slightly from both exertion and lingering adrenaline, I could hardly believe what we’d just accomplished. Later, Mark confessed that true appreciation of the achievement only came once we were back on solid ground – turns out he’d been too focused on my safety up there to fully savour the summit moment!
Back at reception, we celebrated our successful climb with dinner at the restaurant.
Sure, it was just microwaved frozen pizza and ribs, but after a day of intense climbing, this feast tasted like five-star cuisine to two weary campers!
After dinner, we returned to the campsite. There we watched the setting sun paint the massive granite peaks in fiery hues, then cozied up by our crackling campfire.
Things to Do in Spitzkoppe: Stargazing
Wrapped in the desert’s silence, we nursed steaming mugs of hot chocolate and gazed upward at a dazzling tapestry of stars – a perfect end to an epic day.
What started as a leisurely exploration around Spitzkoppe evolved into an ambitious climb up its imposing granite peaks. Despite moments when fear and doubt nearly forced me to retreat, the steady encouragement of my fellow climbers propelled me onward. This challenging adventure pushed me far beyond my comfort zone, yet rewarded me with another unforgettable moment in Namibia.
Do you enjoy hiking? Tell me about your favourite hikes in the comment section below!
Wow, I just love those bald granite peaks popping up theatrically out of the surrounding flat plains -looking at the photos it feels as if creation used granite to display its power and artistic flair. Beautiful! I can only imagine how much fun it would be to camp in peace in between giant boulders and secret caves all while watching the play of light on the rocks as the sun starts to set. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Thanks, Aiva! The landscape is so raw and natural, this visit was truly special!