When I was little, there was a story we were told about how the clouds were so close to earth that people need only reach out to them to ‘pluck’ a portion they would use for food. They were always told to take only what they could finish in a day else the ‘gods’ would become angry and take the clouds far away from them.

I’m sure you might have guessed how the rest of the story goes. Someone always spoils it for everyone and now the clouds are far, far away from us – except you’re in Obudu, that is! Here, literally touch the mountains and once you’re up there, actually feel them against your skin!

Mountain views at Obudu

I’ve had Obudu and its mountains on my mind for the longest time and I’m so happy that I finally got to visit. This trip almost didn’t happen though as we (my sister and I) were advised against going during the rainy season. Planning the trip itself was almost a nightmare!

Thankfully, we had a great deal of help from friends who encouraged us to go on with the journey and were available to answer any questions we had at any time of the day!

Getting to Obudu from Lagos

Obudu Mountain Resort
Obudu Gate

We began our journey from Lagos to Enugu by 8 am – almost 2hrs later than scheduled, using the GIGM bus service. I’ve used these guys before and I thought they were great but this trip didn’t live up to the last one. We left very late and we were stuck with a remarkably rude and fairly rough driver. Thankfully, we still arrived in Enugu in good time.

PS: See cost breakdown here

The next morning, we headed to the park and boarded a bus going directly to Obudu. Big mistake! This bus took forever to get filled up. Like forever, as in 3 good hours! In that time, we would have been more than halfway into our journey.

My friend later told us that we should have gotten into the smaller vehicles that ply the same route. (I didn’t see those at the park we were in). Anyway, we finally arrived at Obudu town at about 5:00 pm and lodged within the town.

Visiting Obudu Mountain Resort (Formerly Obudu Cattle Ranch)

Obudu driveway

The next day, we hired a car and its driver to take us up to the ranch, show us around and bring us back. We had initially planned on sleeping in one of the accommodations up the ranch but we were told the staff was on strike, so we opted for a day trip instead.

The first place we checked out was the Becheve Nature Reserve. An entrance fee was required to go on the nature trail and canopy walkway.

Obudu Mountain Resort: Becheve Nature Reserve and Canopy Walkway

After going on the walkway, we then went on to check out the accommodation areas, which were further uphill. As we made our way up, the weather kept changing so quickly. I have never seen more temperamental weather in my life! It threatened to rain at some point but we got to another point where it was very sunny. The fog also kept lifting and settling on the mountaintops. It was all very breathtaking to watch!

Obudu Mountain Resort: Lodges

Obudu
obudu lodge

Besides enjoying the beauty of nature, there was not much else to do on the ranch. Most of the infrastructures at the time of our visit were either completely abandoned or dying slowly and painfully. I do hope this place would be restored to its former glory someday.

Anyway, the views with and without the fog were nothing but spectacular. It made the treacherous journey to get here absolutely worth it!

Obudu Mountain Resort: Stunning Views

Obudu Cattle Ranch, Cross River
obudu-horse
Mini Waterfall
Obudu

We rounded up our visit to the ranch by checking out the mini waterfalls and natural pool located there before heading back to town to relax and prepare for our trip to a bigger waterfall at Agbokim the next day.

Some Points to Note about Visiting Obudu Mountain Resort

Based on Recommendations, we travelled first to Enugu (using GIGM). This took about 9 hours. Yes, I know, flying takes less time but I hate flying so, I didn’t mind the time spent on the road.

From Enugu, we took a bus from the “Onitsha South” park directly to Obudu through Abakaliki and Ogoja. I hear Cross Country goes directly to Ogoja from Lagos. That might be an option if you don’t want to break the trip up in Enugu. This bus from Enugu took about 5 hours to get to Obudu, inclusive of a 30-minute stop in Abakaliki.

Visiting Nigeria

Getting to the Ranch/Resort: From Obudu town, we hired a driver to take us to and fro. Buses can also be gotten to the foot of the ranch or you can hire a bike if you’re feeling very adventurous! It takes about an hour (more or less) to get to the foot of the ranch from the town.

Road Conditions: I’d say the conditions were 50:50. Part of it was good and the rest was riddled with portholes or not tarred at all. We didn’t have to deal with bad traffic or flooded roads, so this made the trip more bearable.

Coming up next is details of our trip to Agbokim and Calabar and then a cost breakdown and a review of services. I hope you enjoyed reading this first instalment.

Let me know what you think in the comment section below | Follow my adventures on Instagram: @amarachiekekwe and on Twitter: @amarachiekekweh 

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56 Comments

  1. Loving the pictures and the writing is really candid; feels authentic. Nice!!!!

  2. Your pictures are so beautiful. Calabar is on my wish list. Maybe I’ll travel there this year.
    You make traveling seem effortless and fun.
    I wish you many more great adventures

    http://www.fehintolaogunye.com

    • Thanks Fehintola. Hope you get to make the trip there soon. December is a good time, I hear. Drier weather, the carnival and feeling of winter on the ranch.

  3. Lovely! Been years since I was at Obudu and it certainly is different but still a serene environment for some relaxation with a breathe of nature.
    Thank you for this Amarachi. Waiting on the cost breakdown however πŸ˜‰

  4. Great piece of writing!
    I should expect nothing less from you by now.
    Anyway I’m really into carnivals, if there’s ever anyone in west Africa you think would be fun, I’ll love to see a post about that. Would be a great trip for me a couple of friends

    • Thanks Toyo!

      Calabar has a carnival every year in December. Have you been? That might be worth attending if you haven’t. There’s also one in Ghana in August (I think). I haven’t attended any myself. I’d see if I can make it down to Calabar for the carnival this year.

  5. Loved the opening paragraph. Good piece of writing. Would love to visit obudu but the journey sounds exhausting. Looking forward to the cost breakdown article

    • Thanks Esosa. Don’t let the journey put you off. Maybe you can choose to fly into Enugu or Calabar instead of a roadtrip from Lagos. That would reduce the time spent on the road by a great deal.

  6. Henry Onyekachi Nwaka

    From the write up, as detailed, I’d say the experience didn’t go so bad. From the trips to the hills, and walks and photographs, I would love to try it out myself aswell.
    Thanks for sharing.Often times I get to forget my flair for adventuring, it’s a worth while thing.
    PS. Travelling solo is worth trying aswell!
    Soar on Ama…

    • Thanks Henry! Seems like this article did more to discourage travel to Obudu, so I’m really glad to know it’s different for you! πŸ™‚ Hope you get to visit soon

  7. Obudu Ranch has fallen. Why can’t we see the pots of gold in tourism? Your story was refreshing. Let’s have the cost implications. Apart from cost of air ticket, holidaying abroad is cheap. Hotels in Nigeria are expensive.

  8. Sigh, the resort used to be “top on the travel list”. I am not surprised to hear of the state of the resort. The way we do and manage things sha in this country.

    Amarachi, your photos are AMAZING!!!! I need to learn from you ooo.

  9. Now your write just made me feel down right lazy for not putting something up since our return anysha I’m glad you had a blast.

    Cheers dear

    • Hey Bassey, thanks for helping us out with this trip! It could have easily been a disaster if you weren’t so eager to respond to our billion and one questions! I can’t wait to read all about your trip! Please write about it soon πŸ™‚

  10. Love your story.

    A bit poetry with words would make you compete with Chimamanda Adiche.

    Waiting earnestly to read the next.

    Nice one, dear.

  11. Wow that’s so sad! We stayed there for three nights in December 2010. The roads were bad from calabar as in from one pothole to another , but the resort itself was good (minus the overpriced food). I even rode the cable car. I have to say though that because you went in the rainy season the vegetation is green and lllllushhhhh compared to drier temperate we saw in December (I was comparing to my pictures from then).
    Sad about the state of things though . They should hire me to come and manage these things 🀣🀣. Thanks for sharing

    • Please come and help save Obudu! We should start a petition to the Cross River State government for that!
      So much has changed between then and now and so much have remained exactly the same. The roads are still terrible. We came in through Enugu and left through Calabar. I can’t tell which was better. No cable cars for us either. Luckily, nature was still as spectacular as ever and the weather was very kind to us.

      Thanks for stopping by Dee.

  12. In summary, please plan to take me on your next trip. Aside the logistics challenges, it sounded like fun…

    • Haha, I will. Logistics was indeed a problem. You have to really be determined to go to Obudu against all odds to overlook that! I hope it becomes more accessible in the nearest future.

  13. Some of those tales (AKUKO ifo) by the moonlight .I am here for the pictures and your breakdown.continue with the baby gyal ways Amara

  14. I was wondering when this post would be up. Thanks for finally putting it up. Waiting for the next and most important sequel to this post. πŸ˜€

  15. Aww man, I’m a bit disappointed to hear of the state of the infrastructure in obudu. I grew up in Calabar and this somewhere I’ve been wanting to visit but haven’t got a chance to. Oh but the landscape and surrounding area look so beautiful. I would especially love to walk the canopy bridge. Sigh I hope they fix it up soon as it’s such a great location. Your photos are lovely!

    • Thanks Tiese. I was also disappointed with the state of the resort and its accessibility. I hear there used to be an airstrip where one could fly directly to (I still wouldn’t have flown though) but at least there was a service that brought people from Enugu or Calabar into Obudu. The roads to the resort are mostly bad as well. Cable cars were locked away, pool area was closed. We had to tip someone N200 to let us take pictures at the Presidential lodge area. I really hope it gets a face lift soon and most importantly, that it is well maintained going forward.

      For now, we’ll be very thankful that its natural beauty remains untouched!