Cross River Chronicles I: The Spectacular Views of Obudu

When I was little, there was a story we were told about how the clouds were so close to earth that people need only reach out to them to ‘pluck’ a portion they would use for food. They were always told to take only what they could finish in a day else the ‘gods’ would become angry and take the clouds far away from them.

I’m sure you might have guessed how the rest of the story goes. Someone always spoils it for everyone and now the clouds are far, far away from us – except you’re in Obudu, that is! Here, literally touch the mountains and once you’re up there, actually feel them against your skin!

Mountain views at Obudu

I’ve had Obudu and its mountains on my mind for the longest time and I’m so happy that I finally got to visit. This trip almost didn’t happen though as we (my sister and I) were advised against going during the rainy season. Planning the trip itself was almost a nightmare!

Thankfully, we had a great deal of help from friends who encouraged us to go on with the journey and were available to answer any questions we had at any time of the day!

Getting to Obudu from Lagos

Obudu Mountain Resort
Obudu Gate

We began our journey from Lagos to Enugu by 8 am – almost 2hrs later than scheduled, using the GIGM bus service. I’ve used these guys before and I thought they were great but this trip didn’t live up to the last one. We left very late and we were stuck with a remarkably rude and fairly rough driver. Thankfully, we still arrived in Enugu in good time.

PS: See cost breakdown here

The next morning, we headed to the park and boarded a bus going directly to Obudu. Big mistake! This bus took forever to get filled up. Like forever, as in 3 good hours! In that time, we would have been more than halfway into our journey.

My friend later told us that we should have gotten into the smaller vehicles that ply the same route. (I didn’t see those at the park we were in). Anyway, we finally arrived at Obudu town at about 5:00 pm and lodged within the town.

Visiting Obudu Mountain Resort (Formerly Obudu Cattle Ranch)

Obudu driveway

The next day, we hired a car and its driver to take us up to the ranch, show us around and bring us back. We had initially planned on sleeping in one of the accommodations up the ranch but we were told the staff was on strike, so we opted for a day trip instead.

The first place we checked out was the Becheve Nature Reserve. An entrance fee was required to go on the nature trail and canopy walkway.

Obudu Mountain Resort: Becheve Nature Reserve and Canopy Walkway

After going on the walkway, we then went on to check out the accommodation areas, which were further uphill. As we made our way up, the weather kept changing so quickly. I have never seen more temperamental weather in my life! It threatened to rain at some point but we got to another point where it was very sunny. The fog also kept lifting and settling on the mountaintops. It was all very breathtaking to watch!

Obudu Mountain Resort: Lodges

Obudu
obudu lodge

Besides enjoying the beauty of nature, there was not much else to do on the ranch. Most of the infrastructures at the time of our visit were either completely abandoned or dying slowly and painfully. I do hope this place would be restored to its former glory someday.

Anyway, the views with and without the fog were nothing but spectacular. It made the treacherous journey to get here absolutely worth it!

Obudu Mountain Resort: Stunning Views

Obudu Cattle Ranch, Cross River
Obudu 1 scaled
obudu waterfall scaled
obudu-horse
Mini Waterfall
Obudu
Obudu Cattle Ranch1 scaled

We rounded up our visit to the ranch by checking out the mini waterfalls and natural pool located there before heading back to town to relax and prepare for our trip to a bigger waterfall at Agbokim the next day.

Some Points to Note about Visiting Obudu Mountain Resort

Based on Recommendations, we travelled first to Enugu (using GIGM). This took about 9 hours. Yes, I know, flying takes less time but I hate flying so, I didn’t mind the time spent on the road.

From Enugu, we took a bus from the “Onitsha South” park directly to Obudu through Abakaliki and Ogoja. I hear Cross Country goes directly to Ogoja from Lagos. That might be an option if you don’t want to break the trip up in Enugu. This bus from Enugu took about 5 hours to get to Obudu, inclusive of a 30-minute stop in Abakaliki.

Visiting Nigeria

Getting to the Ranch/Resort: From Obudu town, we hired a driver to take us to and fro. Buses can also be gotten to the foot of the ranch or you can hire a bike if you’re feeling very adventurous! It takes about an hour (more or less) to get to the foot of the ranch from the town.

Road Conditions: I’d say the conditions were 50:50. Part of it was good and the rest was riddled with portholes or not tarred at all. We didn’t have to deal with bad traffic or flooded roads, so this made the trip more bearable.

Coming up next is details of our trip to Agbokim and Calabar and then a cost breakdown and a review of services. I hope you enjoyed reading this first instalment.

Let me know what you think in the comment section below | Follow my adventures on Instagram: @amarachiekekwe and on Twitter: @amarachiekekweh 

56 comments

  1. So beautiful, Amarachi. This is such a beautiful piece, from the writing to the photos. It looks like besides all the hassles to get there, it was worth it. Kudos to you and your sister for still making it down there despite the odds. That view is beautiful and did I mention the photos? Great post.

    1. Yes, it was all worth it in the end and we’re so happy we didn’t cancel! Thanks for stopping by and welcome back from Cuba!

  2. Hello, Amarachi.
    Reading your piece is always educating and helpful. The attentions you give to the little details makes some of the places you visit more interesting. I will forever remain the NUMBER 1 FAN OF YOUR WORKS.
    Many thanks for the insight and beautiful pictures too.
    #WehdoneMa’am

  3. Oh my, the landscape is so beautiful and yes to feeling the cloud! I’d love to have that experience. Been seeing the pictures on IG and wanted to see more lol. Nice write up. Maybe one day, just one day, I’d actually visit Obudu.

    http://www.zinnyfactor.com

    1. It was a wonderful feeling. I had my hands outside our car window as we ascended the hill. Most of my best pictures already made it to IG and a few others were ruined due to a camera fault. I’ll try to salvage what I can and edit this post to include more.

      Hope you do get to visit someday and maybe then, everything would be in the right order.

  4. Great Piece Amarachi,
    This information is really timely as my family and I are planning to visit the area some time this year. Sad our usual lack of maintenance is destroying this prized tourist attraction. Well I truly enjoyed your write up.
    The photos were spot on. You had photography training right?

    1. I’m really glad you enjoyed it 🙂 I share the same sentiments about our infrastructures going bad but as of now, Obudu is still worth visiting. I’m just winging this photography thing but I’m looking to get a formal training soon. So happy you loved the pictures.

  5. Beautiful piece… love the Nigerian folklore intro. Hope to visit when I come back.

  6. Loving the pictures and the writing is really candid; feels authentic. Nice!!!!

    1. Thanks Fehintola. Hope you get to make the trip there soon. December is a good time, I hear. Drier weather, the carnival and feeling of winter on the ranch.

  7. Lovely! Been years since I was at Obudu and it certainly is different but still a serene environment for some relaxation with a breathe of nature.
    Thank you for this Amarachi. Waiting on the cost breakdown however 😉

    1. Hey Didi, thanks for reading and commenting. Different good or bad? The cost breakdown will be up soon 🙂

  8. Great piece of writing!
    I should expect nothing less from you by now.
    Anyway I’m really into carnivals, if there’s ever anyone in west Africa you think would be fun, I’ll love to see a post about that. Would be a great trip for me a couple of friends

    1. Thanks Toyo!

      Calabar has a carnival every year in December. Have you been? That might be worth attending if you haven’t. There’s also one in Ghana in August (I think). I haven’t attended any myself. I’d see if I can make it down to Calabar for the carnival this year.

  9. Loved the opening paragraph. Good piece of writing. Would love to visit obudu but the journey sounds exhausting. Looking forward to the cost breakdown article

    1. Thanks Esosa. Don’t let the journey put you off. Maybe you can choose to fly into Enugu or Calabar instead of a roadtrip from Lagos. That would reduce the time spent on the road by a great deal.

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