Oh, Osaka! What a delight to revisit you! Of Japan’s three “golden route” cities, you definitely get the least love. Tokyo gets all the credit for being electric and vibrant, Kyoto charms everyone with its temples and nature, but honestly? I loved you on my first visit in autumn and fell even harder in spring!
We originally planned to start our adventures in Osaka. I’d seen that Qatar Airways began operating flights there, but on my chosen dates, there weren’t any direct flights to the city. As it turned out, the flight, operated by JAL, first went to Tokyo before connecting to Osaka following a 2-hour layover.
Since it was significantly more expensive and the Shinkansen is such a fun way to travel between both cities anyway, we decided to fly in and out of Tokyo instead. So after spending one night in Tokyo, Mark and I met up with Andrew at Shinagawa Station to kick off our whirlwind Japanese adventure.
Taking the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Osaka
We booked our tickets via the smartEx app, which meant that we didn’t have to stand in line to book them at the train station. It took some getting used to navigating our way in and out of the station without a physical ticket, but fortunately, there were several attendants at the station ready to help. Soon, we were aboard the bullet train, speeding towards Osaka.
Since we had planned to spend four full days in the Fuji area, I didn’t think much about reserving seats on the right side of the train’s economy class – the side that offers those coveted glimpses of the mountain when it decides to show itself.
Looking back, I really wish I had booked those seats, mainly for Mark and Andrew, who were experiencing this journey for the first time. I’d already had my moment with Fuji: on a previous trip returning from Osaka to Tokyo in autumn, I’d splurged on a Green car seat (D) and was rewarded with a stunning view of the mountain emerging through partially cloudy skies.
But our four days in Fujiyoshida and Lake Kawaguchiko were filled with unobstructed views like these, day and night. I think that more than cancels out my gaffe! 🙂
Upon arrival in Osaka, we made our way to the hotel via the metro, checked in, and got settled before heading out to Dotonbori to start off an evening stroll through the city.
Where We Stayed in Osaka
We stayed at the Bespoke Hotel Shinsaibashi, which met my expectations on every front. It was within walking distance of every place we planned to visit – some of them required longer walks, but we love to walk in this family 🙂 It was also close enough to a metro station for longer journeys. The rooms were quite small, as expected with most Japanese city hotels, but we found them adequate and comfortable for the two nights we spent in the city.
Street Food at Dotonbori
After settling in, we walked over to Dotonbori to dive headfirst into the street food scene. Spring turned out to be the perfect time to explore – the weather was lovely, and though the streets were filled with people, it was not overly crowded to the point of being unpleasant and uncomfortable.
We checked out the famous Glico Running Man sign – almost impossible to miss – and walked along the canal, which reflected the colourful lights of the district’s many restaurants and shops. We joined a line outside a takoyaki place to sample the local speciality, and all agreed that it was… interesting.
Dinner at Matsusaka Gyu Yakiniku M
For a more upscale dining experience, we treated ourselves to dinner at Matsusaka Gyu Yakiniku M, where we experienced some of the finest wagyu beef Japan has to offer. The Matsusaka beef was incredibly marbled, melting in our mouths with each bite. We all agreed that it was a memorable culinary experience and a great start to dining out in Japan!
After dinner, we took a leisurely evening stroll to visit Namba Yasaka Shrine, though unfortunately, it had already closed by the time we arrived. Still, the walk itself was pleasant. We wandered through peaceful backstreets that would suddenly open onto lively roads filled with the sounds of street musicians and the energy of passing partygoers.
Soon after, we returned to the hotel, prepared to set out early the next day for a day trip to Himeji and Kobe.
Day Trip to Himeji
On the itinerary for our second day in Osaka was a day trip to Himeji to see one of Japan’s most spectacular original castles. What was supposed to be a 30-minute bullet train ride turned into a 2-hour commute because we got on the commuter train instead!
We couldn’t have been happier when the train finally arrived at Himeji Station! And in the distance, right ahead of us, was the regal “Heron Castle” – a sight for sore eyes. We stopped at a bakery for some quick bites before taking the 20-minute casual walk down Otemaedori Street to the castle grounds. There’s a loop bus that takes visitors from the station to the castle in about 5 minutes, but with such great weather and being in no hurry, not wanting to subject ourselves to another minute of commute, walking was the best choice!
I had hoped the castle would be flanked with blooming cherry blossoms by the time we arrived, but these trees wouldn’t open for another few weeks. Still, the castle was a delight to see.
We wandered around the grounds for a short while before making our way to the ticketing station. I guess the blessing in disguise of no cherry blossoms was the sparse queues – we didn’t have to wait in line for tickets or entry into the castle building. In my next post, I will go into more details about this stunning day trip.
Adjacent to the castle was Koko-en Garden. We spent hours wandering through the various sections, and it was quite enjoyable. However, the real highlight of this stop for me was having tea at Soju-an Tea House.
Soju-an Tea House at Koko-en Garden
It wasn’t a complete tea ceremony, but it was close enough. There were no demonstrations or explanations – it was more like a restaurant just for tea :). The hosts served us tea and sweets, and even managed to chat with us a bit despite the language barrier.
After this stop, we were supposed to head to Kobe, but we all agreed that we were too tired and opted to take the train back to Osaka instead, this time on the correct Shinkansen. But first, we walked back down Otemaedori Street, where we tried more street food from vendors who had begun setting up their stalls.
Jazz Cafe Sub & Magic Show at French Drop
Back in Osaka, the night was all about discovering hidden gems. We had dinner at a ramen place, found Jazz Cafe Sub, an intimate underground jazz venue that was an absolute treasure, and then French Drop, a magic bar where incredible sleight of hand met creative cocktails.
I particularly enjoyed the magic show as I have never been to one before. It was incredible to see the performances up close; the magicians were excellent, and I couldn’t have thought of a better way to wrap up our last night in the city.
Revisiting Osaka Castle
We concluded our Osaka adventure with a return visit to Osaka Castle. Again, I was hoping for cherry blossoms, but apart from a lone tree starting to bloom early, there were none to be seen.
Nevertheless, it was worth making the trip over to see one of Japan’s most iconic landmarks and a fascinating piece of history. We explored the grounds for a while, walked through the castle park, checked out Hokoku-jinja close by, before heading back to the hotel to check out and make our way to the next stop – Kyoto.
When it was time to leave, I was happy and content. There are still several places I plan to visit in Osaka. I’ve since accepted that it will take a few more trips to “get Japan out of my system,” so I’ll be back to Osaka someday and will be more than happy to tick those off too. Until next time, Osaka, you’ve won my heart once again.
